Letters: your Andalusia tales, tips and comments

Don’t miss Europe’s largest nature reserve, Doñana, an ornithological Eden of ospreys, imperial eagles, avocets, flamingos and many more. It’s a jewel. No trip is complete without tasting my favourite manzanillas at La Gitana, a bodega established in 1792 in nearby Sanlucar de la Barrameda. Cheers!
Karen Butterworth, via email

Antequera, a quintessential Andalusian town north of Malaga, is inexplicably off the radar of the coach and cooked-breakfast crowd. An ensuite double room costs as little as £20 a night, while authentic, flavoursome tapas and agreeable Rioja can be found in lively bodegas for a few euros a pop. To build up an appetite, visit some of Europe’s largest and oldest dolmens (burial chambers built with huge slabs of rock), circa 4,000BC, just outside the town. Or test the cool, clean water at the Embalse del Guadalhorce lake, a short drive west.

Back in town, visit the Alcazaba de Antequera, a 14th-century walled fortress, for fantastic views of the surrounding area.
Tony Thompson, Mansfield

For me, a day out near Ubrique and Ronda would have to take in the amazing Cueva de la Pileta. There is no sign of the slick visitor arrangements often present at such attractions; instead, our guide sat in silence, having a leisurely fag in front of the rusty grille that bars the entrance to the cave. He was waiting for enough people to join the party to make it worth his while. We didn’t have to wait long.

The cave paintings of creatures and their hunters, and the caverns with their stalactites, are wonderful. Our guide showed us a drawing of tiny bison and hunters at floor level in one of the passageways. We could imagine the prehistoric artist going back to his group, saying, “I’ve done a brilliant one this morning, but you’ll never find it!”
Anne Williams, via email

Chris Haslam’s tips for Andalusia were spot-on — except for Fort Bravo. Cross it off your list, folks, unless you have a supercharged 4x4: the approach tracks are badly signposted and are rutted by flash floods and the baking sun. Save your euros and walk the Caminito del Rey (left) instead.
Peter and Linda Tovey, Blaby

A fabulous way to see the Andalusian countryside is to take a ride on Mr Henderson’s Railway. The mastermind behind it was a British engineer, John Morrison, backed by the wealthy financier Sir Alexander Henderson. Built in the 1890s to link Algeciras, in the south, with Ronda and beyond, the single-track line is a magnificent feat of Victorian engineering and takes in the beautiful valley of the Rio Genal. Look out for wildlife, including eagles, griffon vultures and wild boars.
Alan Chater, Banbury

More from our postbag

Cross trainer
Tim Shipman could have been describing our wonderful tour, when we too fell in love with Vietnam (“Drinking with the ghosts of ’Nam”, last week). But there was no mention of the art of crossing the road — an essential skill if, like us, you’d rather explore cities on foot. We were told that “Give way” signs and red lights are largely ignored. The advice was: “Step out purposefully, holding up a hand. The traffic won’t stop, but it will weave around you. Never go back.” In Saigon, our kerbside dithering prompted a tiny old lady to rush out, flapping her arms and bringing four lanes of traffic almost to a halt. Who wouldn’t love a country like that?
Anna Harbourne, Bewdley

The age of travel
The 78-year-old backpacker last week reminded me of two Australian ladies in their late seventies whom I met at base camp on the eve of climbing the 13,671ft Mount Toubkal, in Morocco. They had both lost their husbands and decided that the best bereavement remedy was to go travelling and seek adventure rustic-style, just like Faye Day. They roared up Toubkal with us in the early dawn and left many others a third of their age way behind. It was joyful being with them. Age should never be a barrier to adventure travel.
John Saunders, via email

What a great life Faye Day is living. I wish her many more adventures, but would rather you didn’t define women in terms of their children and grandchildren. I don’t believe a similar article on a man would have been headed “Great-grandfather, 78, still on the backpacking trail”.
Anna Brookes, via thesundaytimes.co.uk

In for the long haul
I loved reading Martin Hemming’s account of the longest flight last week. I have flown Air France to Buenos Aires, which was made bearable by the in-flight movies and a galley where you could get drinks and food without bothering the flight attendants — a brilliant idea.
Janet Babb, Fareham

Martin was lucky to get an aisle seat with the two next to him empty. I took BA’s 14hr 40min flight to Santiago last month on a 787 Dreamliner (a misnomer if ever there was one). In the middle of the central block of three, I was unable to use my knife and fork, as the seats were so narrow. Also, as you say, the armrests only go up to about 45 degrees, so it required great contortions to get in and out. Thoroughly uncomfortable; the time passed very slowly.
Hilary Dawson, London N11

How often have fellow six-footers been crammed in like tinned sardines? Add to this the passenger in front whose seat flies back towards your face, and the child behind you playing games on the entertainment system, thus punching the back of your head.

Nine thousand miles in those conditions — not likely! These days, it’s a business-class flat bed on which I can snooze after a decent meal. Having endured the tortures of economy for many years, I now turn left when boarding. Martin, I suggest you do the same.
Geoff Salt, Harrow

I am impressed that Martin Hemming actually had 2in of wiggle room for his legs. I too am taller than 6ft, and have yet to sit in any economy-class seat where my knees are not pressed firmly into the seat in front.
Barry Parsons, via email

Do the same journey with kids, mate, and without the empty seats next to you. Then we can talk!
Hemal Shah, via thesundaytimes.co.uk

Identified flying objects
The “peak-like” formations seen in last week’s Big Shot are in fact lenticular clouds. These form when humid air flows over a mountain, then cools, hovering over the peak before disappearing. They are often mistaken for UFOs.
Kay Bagon, Radlett

Credit where it’s due
All credit to Titan Travel. I was intending to book one of its tours of India, but the telesales lady went to great pains to tell me that the dome of the Taj Mahal was being renovated and views would be impaired. As a result, we decided to defer our trip until completion, but huge brownie points for Titan’s honesty.
Barry and Ann Penman, via email

Win two flights with Monarch

Congratulations to Robert van der Welle, this week’s star letter-writer, who wins a pair of return flights with Monarch to any destination on the airline’s network. Monarch flies from five UK airports to more than 40 destinations abroad, including Faro, Tel Aviv and Barcelona (monarch.co.uk).

For a chance of winning the same prize next week, email your comments and tips to travel@sunday-times.co.uk or write to Travel, The Sunday Times, 1 London Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF, including your name, address and phone number. Letters may be edited.

Prize T&Cs: ages 18+; UK residents only; flights non-transferable and subject to availability; full T&Cs at thesundaytimes.co.uk/travelletters